Glacier Weekend

A long anticipated weekend in the high country finally met its culmination this past weekend. Time off was taken, dogs and cats accounted for, and a three-day weekend was planned and executed. The destination, Glacier National Park. A place I seem to need to spend time in at least once a year. It's like the coast, you can't be away too long before you need to return. Perhaps reaffirming to yourself that it's still there...perhaps just being selfish and wanting to get away from work and society...perhaps for no reason at all. Perhaps it's just so incredible that you feel an inward desire just to SEE it again.

The trek over there began by going north from Coeur d'Alene and heading through Sandpoint, Bonners Ferry, Troy, Libby, Kalispell, etc. That turned into a LOOONG drive. Mapquest said 4.5 hours...well, it took 6. They must not account for bathroom breaks, old and slow drivers holding up 7 vehicles, scenery, etc. But, coming into Kalispell from the west we were greeted by views of the Mission and Swan ranges...and the goal...Glacier! Picking up groceries in Columbia Falls, we passed the entrance in record time and found a campsite. Time to go to the lake and get a glimpse of what was to come early Saturday morning.


Lake McDonald


Photograph of the photographer photographing Lake McDonald


Interesting mushrooms


A little closer

So, standing by the lake, taking photos of the mountains and mushrooms...there was this sound drifting around. What is that? Sounded like a trombone? A tuba? Some kind of instrument. Perhaps someone has seen these two characters on the webcam because we could see them standing there by the shore, playing their very best. Sorry for the criticism, but a.) You need more practice and b.) The sun setting on Lake McDonald is no place for a session.
It was funny, sad, and annoying all at the same time. But, it meant something to someone. We heard clapping and saw the flashes of cameras, felt bad for laughing at the attempt because perhaps it was a tribute to someone who died. Who knows. But it happened and we were there.

That night led us battling a drunken party adjacent to us in the campground. The last I heard was two guys up and probably telling one another they loved the other at 2:30 a.m. Fortunately, at roughly the same time I sat up in my sleeping bag. A ringing recognition crossed my eardrums. Straining against the hearty laughter I heard it! An elk bugle! The very first I've heard this year! I went back to sleep disheartened at the extraneous noise and the thrill at hearing the bull. I knew the ridge where the sound was coming from and wanted to take off in the blackness and take in what that bull was experiencing.

But the morning began with a HEARTY breakfast of bacon, eggs, and taters. Topped with strong coffee and a roaring fire...it made for a good start to a good day. Even leaving the campground we ran into a little bull moose. Made me think about my coming season for that species arriving quickly...very quickly. But, I pushed that out of my head.

Drove up the lake and the river in a crowd. Came to find out later that this weekend was the last the Lodge would be open. Perhaps that's why the large crowd? Maybe it was because of the late summer? Who knows. It got kinda annoying with all the traffic, but....it is what it is I guess.


Driving up river


That one peak

So, driving up Going to the Sun road turned into an adventure with all the traffic. There was a stop sign that kept us all in line...all 25+ cars. "No stopping for 1 mile" it said. So, tailed, following, etc all the way to the top of Logan Pass basically. The lot was full of people. It was funny, you could tell the ones prepared to hike and the ones who were just there to say they made it by the clothing. One thing though was the WIND! I wish I had the kestrel up there, it was blowing hard enough it made it difficult to remain motionless for a camera shot and also to stay warm. I wonder what the windchill was because the thermometer at the visitor center said something like 48 degrees. Chilly. But, we got hiking toward Hidden Lake with everyone else and warmed up.



Bear Cap mountain


Sarah enjoying Bear Cap. I'm very excited about this photo! LOVE IT.


Coming down from Hidden Lake overlook. VIVID.


Approaching Logan Pass looking toward St. Mary's Lake


HAVE to take this photo at Logan Pass (if it's your first time)


But, we hadn't had enough of the pass, so we took off on the Highline Trail.


Kinda neat how it's carved out of the cliff


Wildlife photography



This was the elusive fella in question. Begging

Proceeding along the trail we saw some goats up on the slopes above us. Then past a group that told us about the Bighorns coming up within 1/2 a mile! We moved a little quicker toward Haystack to catch up with them. Turns out there was no worry, they bedded down about thirty to forty yards from the trail! Good photo opportunity, makes me wish I had an even better camera and a nice tripod!


Enjoying the sun


Big 'ol Ram


Haystack


Another Haystack view


Stopping point. Can't ask for too much better!

We left the Highline because it was getting a little late. Had trouble with the time because of the time-change coming into Montana. We wanted to think it was earlier than in was! But, our anticipated dinner at the Lake McDonald Lodge worked out well and we ended up back at camp with full bellies and a lot of thoughts.

The weekend was concluded with a four and a half our drive back to Coeur d'Alene via St. Regis. A nice drive with less traffic, but still hard to leave a good weekend. Interrupted only by helping a turtle cross the road. The pond WAS greener on the other side.

Some things bothered me about this weekend though. I saw a kid on the trail to the Hidden Lake overlook...in Glacier National Park...on the top of Logan Pass...wearing his earphones while hiking. Then, Saturday night on a dark walk around closed sections of the campground (fun to walk in the dark) we saw a guy in a car. His tent was up, there was no fire. But he was sitting in his car....ON HIS COMPUTER. We heard people getting text messages on their cellphones in camp. We heard people on speaker phone via a cellphone in camp. We had traffic jams. We saw drunken stupid behavior. The "line" to get seated at the Lodge had the only three people behind us standing within (at least my) bubble. What's the rush? Why bring all that to a place where it's meant that you leave it behind?

I feel like Glacier is a place to leave that kind of life for a little bit. A place to escape to. A place where you can hear, see, and feel small. That's just me I guess.

Glacier Teaser

More to come later...


Sarah enjoying the view above Hidden Lake

Weekend on the Northfork

I went to the Northfork of the Clearwater / Kelly Creek this past weekend. Since I worked two seasons there, it again brought back a flood of memories. Passing the trailhead to Bear Butte I remembered my first IC assignment...the helicopter dropped us off at someone's bear-baiting site and the area was covered in huckleberries as big as your thumb! Remembered messing around with a kayak, dropping each other off of overhanging rocks into deep pools. Fishing, hiking, playing with saws, sleeping in the dirt, the thrill of a lightening storm. In 2000 it got so busy, we'd get off the helicopter and shower. They had a cook come in, so we ate and ate...then got back on the ship and went to the next fire. That was a perfect month.

BUT, this time, I was there to fish and relax. Which I did. Got over there about 5 o'clock on Friday night since I took Friday off and had to still get stuff ready to go. Third cast on a little hole out of camp landing me a fun little cutthroat. I was amazed at all the salmon! Didn't really think that they are spawning now. Well, they are...and they were everywhere! It was fun to sit and watch them despite how you truly can't capture them on film. I woke up Saturday morning, leaned out the tent, and checked on the river...could see them from there! Talk about ideal.

So I made some coffee out of Clearwater water (none better...unless you're on the Lochsa) and set out to fish. Found secluded holes that must get overlooked because I caught some dandy trout and a lot of them. Spotted a monster in a clear stretch and when I sent the fly his way he mosied off...I could almost see him roll his eyes. Another little guy (about 10 inches) was feeding next to a salmon and it looked annoying, so I figured I'd help the salmon out. Put the fly RIGHT where it needed to be and that little guy came flying out of the water for it. As we struggled, the salmon just looked at him like, "WHAT is wrong with you? Keep it down man." There was another, probably a 16 inch cutthroat that had a "long release." But the way he came into the fly was like a stealth...slow, big, silent...then you could almost see him think, "looks alright. Hmmm, ok." Bad idea.

Poked around doing that the rest of the day and then about two o'clock it decided to really close in and try and rain. I made a little wood run and found bits and pieces that people had left behind. Dropped that off at camp and putzed around for a bit. But then I got bored and didn't really want to fish, so I made a trip to Mush saddle. I saw a cow moose in a pond looking just like Eor. Almost in over her shoulders, munching on the vegetation on the bottom, when she picked her head up out of the water her ears were laid back and dripping. Looked sad and content all at the same time.

Reminiscing yet again on my drive out of the valley. That was nice...all the leaves turning color, drawing up old memories, and the absolute LACK of anyone else was comforting. I made it back to camp and started a hurried fire, the wind was blowing like it does before it decides to dump a bunch of rain on you. The Ponderosa needles were raining and I got a tarp up just in time for the rainstorm. It didn't stop all night. So I hunkered. But I did go out fishing a bit and found it to be rather productive. The rain must make bugs hit the water more and see your line less.

Got kind of irritated this morning with the rain STILL coming down and no respite in sight, so I packed up camp and was on the road at 0830. Home 1230. Again, another 4 hour drive...but worth it for some time with my thoughts.



Camp


Camp again


Look at all the salmon!



Old battered bulls


Chasing the girls



Interesting creek near camp



On the way to Mush saddle


Mountain Ash berries



Mountain Ash leaves


More berries


And more berries



I shall call this "pancake fungus"


Perfect short stack!


Maple



Autumn arriving


Tell me you don't see an evil dude on horseback


Check out the Nazgul / dragon on the top!


Power of water

Revelation...I think

I just had a thought that might be the source of a lot of my recent discomfort with the area I live in currently.

Oh wait, an update. All I did this weekend was buy clothes (1.5 hours) and go to a wedding (4.5 hours). That's it.

Ok. The revelation:

I noticed that I don't have the passion to do things I once was..well..passionate about. I don't really care to fly-fish, hunt waterfowl, fish, hike to peaks, hike on trails to lakes, backpack, etc.

Now, it's not that I don't WANT to do these things...it's just that it takes at least two hours of driving to fish a decent stretch of river. The water here is so contaminated with toxins that I don't even want to TRY to hunt ducks let alone eat the fish. I know fishing catch-and-release is all well and good, but sometimes you have to partake in your catch...and to drive two hours to do that and have to camp? Hardly worth the price. I bought a flat-bottom boat to exploit this resource here (waterfowl and fishing) and hardly use it....I've heard from some Fish & Game guys that there are certain areas the ducks will be so contaminated that it is recommended you don't eat them. Even the DIRT around some access areas is so toxic, they suggest that pregnant women and children don't dawdle there long. No thank you. Hike to peaks? Well, you get to a "peak" around my country and you can't see out. There are no rocks and ice, vistas and challenges...there is only trees. Backpack to lakes? I think we have three close by...and close by means at least a 1.5 hour drive, then if nothing more than a 1 hour walk to a puddle.

I have been missing what I used to do for a long time now, and this simple list doesn't encompass it all. Sure, I should embrace what the lifestyle is around me and become part of it. Which I do! ....to a point. I cannot feel the need to ATV around the woods, but I will do it. I will haul a trailer and a boat to one hour+ to Priest Lake to motor around because I feel like I'm out of the pollution and once there, I like to pretend to fish and just play. I get irritated with all the people and their motorized recreation, but I put up with it and can appreciate their willingness to get outside in their national forests and recreate. I can still hunt with a large toothy grin...but it is nothing like packing into an undiscovered tract of land I found out of luck and research. Once there (like my EARLY post about packing into my first bowhunting elk camp) to be entirely alone and surrounded by elk.

I feel like I have lost a piece of myself leaving Montana. I used to be able to do many more things than I feel like I can do here easily and safely. And it scares me. Montana isn't the same. The Bitterroot Valley isn't the same. I'm not sure I can go "home" so where do I go?

I'm not satisfied to tell myself "it's just me. Get used to people and their habits." I don't believe that has to be the case in the lifestyle I desire. I think there are other places where people still wave in their vehicles, still have respect for one another, still care for the land on their own time, and still preserve that for their children. (Again, not to say these folks aren't doing that...but it's not exactly in a way that I want to see it.)

I don't like driving for 2 - 5 hours to find the kind of life that I need.

Call me crazy.

Clearwater Blackberries

Yes, an annual tradition has become reunited with a guy that longs for the journey that was missed!

Three day weekend and how did I spend it? Picking berries and generally just enjoying myself on the mighty Clearwater. A combination of my favorite rivers...the Selway and the Lochsa...the Clearwater carries the same great, unique smell, feel, and flavor of my childhood. The light looks different down there, the river shines in it's own. Photographs are simple. The opportunities are endless, the bounty abundant. I love it down there.

So this long weekend was planned as a blackberry weekend. We left early Saturday morning and picked berries...camped..relaxed throughout the morning...and picked again Sunday morning. Then made the long trip home so we could have a day tying loose ends together.

Overall, I think we picked about 32 lbs of blackberries! I'm using 4 lbs to make some more wine, the rest are being frozen as we speak. Thinking about investing in some canning gear to make some jam! Sarah seems to be content adding the berries to pancakes. We made a little adventure out of breakfast Sunday morning by having very thin pancakes. Solution? Say they were crepes and just roll berries in them! Thick, crisp, bacon and crepes by the fire with fresh pressed coffee? How much better does it get?

I didn't want to leave.

My Two Shadows camp is an ideal place to be. It's always open during the winter months and is generally passed by people heading up river. So that was open for us to use, as well as my "heritage" blackberry patch my Mom used to take us kids to. Very fun to live old memories and new beginnings. I love that the one I'm with can find excitement in driving four hours, dressing in long sleeves and heavy trousers, in the sun, just to pick berries. This weekend was perfect.

Unfortunately, I have no blackberry photos! What gives? But I did take off on Saturday night and just mosied around with the dog taking photos. These are them.



Enjoying the shadows



Ferns



Closer ferns...inverted by the way



Just interesting



All the rocks point in the same direction



TINY frog. It's probably about 1/4 inch lengthwise....there were hundreds of them!




The clearwater showing it's resiliency